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Every weekend as the sun rises, the eagle eyed traveler can spot a cavalcade of sorts grudgingly making its way up the steep climb of Sinhagad fort. On closer inspection this rag tag bunch of trekkers consists of all sorts of people - young & old, men, women, and kids, the occasional professional climber and more often than not a lively bunch of chattering school or college students. People from all walks of life converge on Sinhagad in an effort to scale the impressive summit or ride to the top in a car. Whatever gets you up on a Sunday xD.
A Brief History
Located near the Khadakwasla Dam about 40kms from Pune Airport, Sinhagad has a rich history dating back centuries. While no concrete evidence exists for it, it is said that the fort was built nearly 2000 years ago. Also called Kondhana, the fort and its nearby area has been witness to several dynasties and conflicts. Initially held by the Koli chieftains, it was captured by the Tughlaq dynasty in the 14th century. Since then it changed hands several times over the years. Its more notable history comes during the time of Chatrapati Shivaji. The strategic position of the fort led to the tussle between Shivaji and the Mughal forces where Shivaji captured the fort twice before giving it back once to secure the release of his father and the second time due to the treaty of Purandar. It is in 1670, when Shivaji decide to retake the fort, and the story of Sinhagad was enshrined in history. A crack maratha force led by Shivaji's loyal subedar Tanaji Malusare, was able to launch a suprise attack on the fort using a previously unclimable route. A fierce battle was fought at the Kalyan gate of the fort. Though the Marathas were successful, it came at the cost of several casualties including their leader Tanaji. This is said to be when Shivaji occurred the famous line "Gad aala pan sinh gela" (The fort was captured but we lost a lion). Even though earlier the fort was known as Sinha-gad, the name stuck and its been called that since. Post the death of Shivaji's son Sambhaji, the fort changed hands several times. Finally the Peshwas (successors of Shivaji's empire) controlled it till 1817 before it was captured by the British East India Company. During India's independence struggle, it was home to Bal Gangadhar Tilak, a prominent freedom fighter. Since then its become a famous tourist and trekking destination.
Climbing Sinhagad
Imagine the Sun's coming up, there is a cool & gentle breeze coming from the Khadakwasla dam, the birds are chirping and you are bent over a rock panting your lungs out. Yep, that's Sinhagad. Over 700 meters in elevation and involving a climb of nearly 2.7kms, Sinhagad offers a good challenge to an amateur trekker. Though its best to get through most of climbing before the sun reaches its peak or you'll be starting off your day with the choicest of curse words.
Once you reach the base of the mountain (Pune side) in the wee hours of the morning (reaching post 10 am on a sunny day - lol; you might as well pop a limbu soda & head back to Pune to have a cold one) and manage to find parking on a busy Sunday, you'll start a easy climb over broken roads and steps till you cross an open field full of families. Here the steps start. Broken and old steps line up to assist you to gradually gain elevation and begin the climb. Make sure you capture the sun peaking through the trees and post it on Instagram, because #thatswhyyouarethere xD. After a steady climb of about 20 minutes (at a decent pace) you'll emerge on the spine of the mountain. From here you have a 360 degree panoramic view of the valley bellow and the peak up above you. This is where you realize that you have had it easy so far.
From this section onwards, the climb becomes steeper. As you navigate the many boulders along your way, you become aware of the sheer incline that stands in your way. Throughout the route, there are multiple offshoots leading to various junctions. They differ in the difficulty and steepness while offering a quicker route to those willing to murder their calves. For those who stick to the path, the route nevertheless slowly winds up along the mountain side. In-between there are a few places where you can catch your breath. On a particularly steep section, some 400m short of the summit, there is corridor of sorts covered by a god sent canopy of trees that offer some respite from the summer heat (because obviously you snoozed you alarm clock and reached late xD).
From here, its up to you. You catch a glimpse of the summit through various bends and can practically see yourself there. This is also the time where you regret the extra beers that you had last night. As you painstakingly make your way up there, you pass the early birds (unnatural early risers) descending from the fort. While you curse them mentally for looking so chirpy, they offer you fake motivation that you are almost there. You aren't. People have been a few hundred yards away from the peak of EVEREST and have been forced to turn back. The final stage of any climb is the worst as you can see the summit, see yourself on top of it and yet with every step you take it still feels a hundred miles away. Anyways, this isn't Everest. No one is offering you cold nimbu sharbat over there. Rest up, click a few picture and make a beeline for the peak. The last section, barely 100m is more gradual and more about not twisting your baby ankles on the many rocks that call Sinhagad home. And with one final effort, you pull yourself to the SUMMIT!
Not quite. You simply reach the last possible motorable spot on the fort. Here you meet irritating people who have just stepped out of their air conditioned cars and join a throng of them heading up towards the actual summit. You enter the fort through the Pune Darwaza and climb old steps to see a fort in ruins. Various historical monuments are placed along the route but that's a conversation for another day. And finally you reach the peak, the view point of Sinhagad. Now, take that Instagram worthy shot and why not. On your way down there are several Marathi delicacies to try. Make sure you head back down from the trekking route. Its dangerous, full of loose gravel & sheers falls; so its obviously fun. The route back down takes half the time. You skid a few times and are sorely reminded of the fact that your sports shoes aren't really meant for the mountains. But you make it back in one piece and head back in the city. But as you do, make sure you glance back up once. Remember the climb, soak up the rich history, burp out the delicious kanda bhaji and make a promise to yourself - WEAR BETTER SHOES THE NEXT TIME!
Cheers and happy trails!